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Classic climb: Passo Manghen, the beast hidden by northern Italy’s beauties
Italy has an incredible number of the world’s most beautiful climbs. We’ll never stop waxing lyrical about the likes of the Stelvio, Gavia, Zoncolan, Grappa, Mortirolo, Giau, Finestre, Pordoi, Nivolet, et cetera, but the presence of those big names means there is a whole host of stunning climbs that don’t get the attention they would if they were in other parts of the world.
Rest assured, if the Passo Manghen were in the UK, it would be far and away this country’s greatest climb.
If you’re unfamiliar with the Manghen, that may have something to do with its geography. The southern ascent begins in Borgo Valsugana, a small town on the SS47 motorway that connects Bassano del Grappa to Trento. The mighty Monte Grappa is about 40km to the east and the Dolomites begin on the other side of the valley in the north.
Its proximity means the Manghen – as one of only a few passes on the Lagorai massif, linking Valsugana with Val di Fiemme – has always been a Giro d’Italia bridesmaid on the way to finishes elsewhere.
It has appeared in the Giro six times, and while the climb was first paved in 1958 it didn’t make its Giro debut until 1976, which was the only time the northern ascent has been used.
It has its place in cycling’s murky years, with Marco Pantani cresting first (marginally) en route to his penultimate Giro stage win in 1999, before he was kicked off the race two days later.
The same route featured in 2008, with the stage won by almost five minutes by Italy’s Emanuele Sella, who would also win the next stage to Passo Fedaia as well as Stage 20 over the Gavia and Mortiolo before getting a doping ban a couple of months later.
The climb’s most recent appearance was in 2019 when it was the second of four climbs, preceding the Passo Rolle and Croce d’Aune, where Astana’s Miguel Ángel López threw punches at a fan.
On the bottom looking up
You’ll often see the Passo Manghen quoted as starting from Telve, but that’s a little bit up the hill from Borgo Valsugana and starting in the town makes more sense for most people.
It’s important not to get too excited on the early slopes, with almost 23km at an average of over 7% to contend with, and if you take most sources at face value you’ll think the steepest sections only just edge over 11%, however that is misinformation.
Starting from the east side of Borgo it kicks off at around 7% to get you warmed up quickly with a 2km drag to and around Telve before a right turn takes you onto the Passo Manghen road proper. The rise cutting across the mountainside is steady and offers a lovely view of the whole valley.
Civilisation then begins to get sparse and the surroundings get greener; it’s a good time to get into a rhythm to knock off a few kilometres before the real pain begins. This winding stretch digs in before the scenery opens up and does actually provide a hint of how high the top is, although the summit is still out of sight at this point.
This leads to the easiest section, with even a bit of light descending, so it’s a good time to refresh the legs, eat some snacks and fill up your bottle at one of the fountains on the side of the road.
The drag through the tree-lined section goes on and on but the inconsistent gradient never gets too hard and offers regular respite from the pinch. There are several tempting seating areas along the way, however it’s best to resist as it’s about to get good.
New horizons
The Passo Manghen was originally a mule track, and even when it was first paved it wasn’t all paved. On its initial appearance at the Giro only the first half was tarmac, the rest gravel, so unsurprisingly the riders – even Eddy Merckx – didn’t like it and it was cast aside for several years until the whole route was tarmac. Smooth it may now be, but easy it is not.
‘Manghen’ derives from a local word for winches, a reference to the timber industry that has long harvested trees from its slopes. It’s worth keeping a wary eye out for the log-laden trucks that fly round the climb’s tight bends with the confidence of Monte Carlo Rally drivers, and there are plenty of stacks of logs by the road to get an artistic photo of your bike.
After around 11km the climb crosses over the Maso river and onto the next valley, Val Calamento, and the summit begins to show itself. Not that this helps much. It’s still a long way away.
You’re properly in the mountains now, with just lumberjacks for company and the odd house always partnered with a storage cabin. The road is rather too straight, meaning it pitches up to and past 10% as you get to the Aurai hotel.
The surrounding fields are still very lush as the altitude ticks up, and the consistency of the gradient around the low double figures means it’s ticking up quite quickly. There’s a premature sense of achievement as the road levels off slightly once you’re officially out of the Calamento village, but the valley seems to be getting longer and the road is only now starting to wind up to the right.
The Malga Baessa restaurant at 15km is the last place before the top for a solid stop but, unless it’s required, now is probably not the time to fill your bidon. If anything it’s the opposite. From here on you’ll want to be lightweight.
Good things come
A winding road, cows, woodland, an idyllic stream, hills… if you were teleported to this scene you’d be forgiven for thinking you were in Scotland, but thankfully it’s likely to be a little warmer.
By the time the road draws level with the river once again it has become a narrow stretch of tarmac and begins to pitch up in gradient quite seriously – this is the beginning of the end. You head straight towards a tall, forested hill, opening the box but not burning your matches.
The valley opens more to the left of the hill, but the road goes right, flattening off slightly to bridge the river as you tick over 1,500m above sea level. Just another 500m to climb.
If there’s a cycling equivalent of a winch, it’s a hairpin, and this last section packs them in. It now feels like a proper Classic Climb, with each turn providing significant lifts edging on 20%. It’s not enough to make the rest easy, though. The average is still sticking just below 10%, but at least the feeling of actual progress will provide some watts you didn’t know you had left.
The top of the mountain feels like a stadium. The peak surrounds you as the road twists and turns to find an accessible route, and there still doesn’t look to be a way out. To make things more interesting, the height of the Manghen means the summit is often shrouded in cloud, even when you do the majority of the climb in bright sunshine, and it feels suitably epic for the achievement you’re closing in on.
There are pitches of 15% in this finale and it still manages to find more mountain to climb, even when it seems like you’re about to reach the top. Eventually the final hairpin reveals the summit above, although the confusion of the landscape means you probably don’t know it until you get there.
A small sign announcing 2,000m of altitude is the signal to put in a final dig to the top. The summit is a sight for sore eyes and legs. The sticker-covered Passo Manghen sign presents the view over the next valley – more mountains – and just below the next hairpin is a pond and a rifugio. Lunch is waiting, as is a glorious descent.
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