Cyclist
Why Wales is one of the world’s best cycling destinations
British cyclists are always dreaming of riding in far-away lands with sunshine and climbs, where days on the bike mix pleasure and pain, and where the scenic route is anywhere you turn, but that paradise is a lot closer to home.
Wales has a never-ending number of savage climbs, sea views and is brimming with natural beauty. You’d be hard pressed to find a better place in the world to ride a bike, and the rides are nestled in villages and counties filled with culture, food and drink, and accommodation for whatever kind of trip you’re planning.
This is why Wales should be on your bucket list.
Eryri (Snowdonia)
Any discussion about mountains in Wales of course starts with Eryri (Snowdonia), home to Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon), as well as 14 other mountains. That means it’s where you’ll find many of Wales’ toughest climbs – including the hairpins of Stwlan Dam, the UK’s steepest road Ffordd Pen Llech and Britain’s Mont Ventoux: Bwlch y Groes – as well as some stunning off-road routes.
There’s never an easy ride, but Eryri is always beautiful, whether you’re in its south, north or somewhere in between.
You can ride the Brailsford Way, named after Sir Dave Brailsford, who rode the routes growing up. It features climbs up Llanberis Pass and Pen-y-Pass and there’s plenty of descending to enjoy the views of the mountain. The route stretches to loop around Caernarfon Castle for an all-important spot of history to exercise the mind and body.
More modern history lies in Dyffryn Nantlle, which was once the centre of the local slate industry and includes several steep ascents. The highest point on the Brailsford Way is the Crimea Pass, which unsurprisingly doesn’t constitute an easy ride.
Primo views meet riders heading out from Betws-y-Coed, with the Eryri landscape opening up with lakes and great spots to see the Snowdon Horseshoe. On the west-side of Eryri, culture-lovers have to take a trip to Portmeirion, an incredible Italianate village that looks out over the estuary of the River Dwyryd.
For those wanting to tackle rougher surfaces, the Traws Eryri route cuts 200km through Eryri National Park on tracks and trails with endless climbs, descents and excellent places to stay along the way – you definitely don’t have to do it all at once. We’ve gathered some suggestions below to get you going.
If you’re in the market for organised fun, the Tour de Môn sportive takes riders around the island of Anglesey, just northwest of Eryri.
Places to stay
Treks Bunkhouse
If you’re looking for a place to bed down, the Treks Bunkhouse hostel in Llan Ffestiniog is located in a wonderful site with magnificent views toward the Llŷn Peninsula. It’s not far from the slate centre of Blaenau Ffestiniog, Coed y Brenin forest and mountain bike trail centre, Cader Idris mountain, Portmeirion village and the incredible Harlech Beach.
Stables Lodge
On the other side of Eryri is Stables Lodge, located in Betws-y-Coed, a popular gateway for all kinds of Eryri explorers. It has a range of room sizes to choose from, with a B&B option available with the Royal Oak pub next door for a delicious full Welsh breakfast. It has a bike wash to clean off after a big day out and warm lockers to dry your kit.
Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons)
While north Wales has Eryri, south Wales has Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons). Sitting just north of Swansea, Cardiff and Newport and stretching to the border with England, it technically consists of three mountain ranges, meaning an array of naturally beautiful peaks, valleys and climbs.
Bannau Brycheiniog is so packed with amazing cycling routes that it’s practically impossible to pick them out. It does include, though, two sections of National Cycle Routes that link riders from Cardiff and Chepstow to the heart of the national park and its many many climbs.
It’s home to some of Wales’s most notorious ascents, including the Devil’s Elbow and Devil’s Staircase (no prizes for guessing how hard those two are), as well as Gospel Pass, the Tumble and the Black Mountain, which hosted the summit finish of the Queen Stage of the 2022 Women’s Tour. And with that it hosts a chunk of Britain’s hardest sportive, the Dragon Ride.
Of course there’s culture too, and readers will be familiar with the town on the north eastern tip of the park, Hay-on Wye. Why not combine reading and riding (just not at the same time)?
Places to stay
The Granary
If Hay-on-Wye does tickle your tastebuds, The Granary is a recently-converted barn that sits at the foot of the Black Mountains between Hay-on-Wye and Brecon, so the best of Bannau Brycheiniog is at its doorstep. It has two luxury en-suite rooms and a smaller twin room, as well as secure bike storage.
Penstar Bunkhouse
For a quick stop-over or an affordable option, Penstar is another old barn on a working farm with one bed and is available from just £11 per person per night. It’s situated in Libanus, right in the heart of Bannau Brycheiniog.
Carmarthenshire
If you’re looking for somewhere to go in Wales that has everything, Carmarthenshire is the place to go. Carmarthenshire has culture and scenery aplenty, including a coastline that stretches past Llanelli, Carmarthen Bay and Pembrey, which is home to the popular Battle on the Beach off-road race. A day or two spent on the Wales Coast Path cycling route is essential.
In the east it begins in Bannau Brycheiniog, so immediately the whole national park is on your doorstep. In the southeast it’s just north of Swansea and the Gower peninsula and in the west it borders with Pembrokeshire with its own coastal national park. it’s also positioned geographically so that Eryri National Park isn’t out of reach for a day trip, and sat between Carmarthenshire and Eryri is Mynyddoedd Cambria (the Cambrian mountains), a great place to ride itself.
Places to stay
Abermarlais Caravan and Camping Park
For bikepackers or just those that want to camp, you can’t go wrong with settling down in the adults-only Abermarlais park on the edge of Bannau Brycheiniog in Llangadog. Perfectly located for maximum adventure possibilities, there are 88 pitches available from £26 per night.
Waun Wyllt
Waun Wyllt is a popular country inn not far outside of Llanelli, southwest of Bannau Brycheniog and within touching distance of Pembrey. The real seller though is that it won Camra Pub of the Year for Carmarthenshire. Need we say more?
Wales’ best climbs
As nice as not suffering is, if cyclists are going on holiday they invariably want to climb, and thankfully Wales has more classic climbs than we’ve got time to mention. Here are some of our favourites:
Stwlan Dam
A European climb hidden away in Eryri, it’s a road up to a reservoir from Tanygrisiau and features 3.3km of gruelling gradients, terrific tarmac and heavenly hairpins.
Devil’s Staircase
An aptly named ascent in the Cambrian Mountains, the Staircase is a series of hairpin bends that technically form just one part of the Abergwesyn Pass, but you’d be forgiven for having a rest either side and calling it multiple climbs.
Devil’s Elbow
Not to be confused with the Devil’s Staircase, the Devil’s Elbow is in Bannau Brycheiniog and is only just shy of 2km long but has hairpins, views and is a true test.
Horseshoe Pass
The Horseshoe Pass is in north Wales, in Llangollen, near Wrexham, and spans 8km with an average 4% slope and scenery that you can enjoy on the way back down. Its neighbour, the Old Shoe, is a recent host of the National Hill Climb Championships and is worth adding in to the same ride with its shorter distance but harsher gradient.
Ffordd Pen Llech
Talking of harsh gradients, Fford Pen Llech in Eryri is the UK’s steepest road and has been in a battle with a road in New Zealand for the title of the world’s steepest thanks to pitches of up to nearly 40% in gradient. We’ll leave this one to you.
Black Mountain
A slow and steady climb, Black Mountain in Bannau Brycheiniog is 6km at an average of 5.7%, which it doesn’t stray far from throughout.
Bwlch y Groes
The second highest public road in Wales, Bwlch y Groes is brutal. 3.5km long at and average of 11.3% and an utterly savage 25% in parts, hopefully the views on the way back down makes it worth it. It’s also known as Hellfire Pass and Britain’s Mont Ventoux if you needed its difficulty sold any more.
Gospel Pass
Gospel Pass is Wales’ highest road and is situated in Bannau Brycheiniog near Hay-on-Wye. Its toughest side is 8.5km long with a tough middle section that pitches up to 16%. Say your prayers.
Sportives and cycling events in Wales
Of course you don’t have to plan rides in Wales all by yourself, you can get stuck into some of the sportives and events put on for your enjoyment (if you can call it that). These are some of the classics.
The Dragon Ride
Not for the faint-hearted, the Dragon Ride is one of the UK’s oldest sportives and takes in the hardest climbs in south Wales through the scenic landscape of Bannau Brycheiniog. It has routes ranging from 98km to a horrid 298km, which is just rude, but takes in, among others, Black Mountain, the Devil’s Staircase, the Devil’s Elbow and the Bwlch, to account for 4,614m of elevation.
This year it takes place on 23rd June.
Battle on the Beach
The UK’s biggest off-road bike race, Battle on the Beach takes place on 6th April 2024 and sees riders power down Cefn Sidan Beach and back to the start in Pembrey Country Park next to the Wales Coast Path in Carmarthenshire. Lung-busting, leg-burning and totally unique. But not easy.
Tour de Môn
On the other side of the country is the Tour de Môn, a sportive held on 18th August 2024 that takes riders around the island of Anglesey in northwest Wales. Distances range from just over 5km to 190km, so it’s family-friendly, well-supported and scenic.
For more information and inspiration head to visitwales.com
That got you excited? Win a stay in Carmarthenshire plus extra goodies from Restrap with Visit Wales and Cyclist.
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