Cyclist
Col de Vars, a gentle giant in the Alps
Whether by car or by bike, the Route des Grandes Alpes is one of the most spectacular journeys in Europe. Starting at Lake Geneva, it winds southwards through the Alps to Nice on the Mediterranean coast, taking in some of the most famous cols along the way.
These include the mighty Col de l’Iseran at an altitude of 2,764m, the Col du Galibier at 2,645m, and the Col d’Izoard at 2,360m, then onwards to another giant that isn’t as notorious as its neighbours but is still a worthy climb in its own right: the Col de Vars.
At an average gradient of 5.9%, the Col de Vars may not appear very threatening, but this is a climb of nearly 20km, topping out at 2,108m, so it presents a significant challenge to any rider.
The fact that there are some flat sections and even a stretch of downhill is an indication that the average gradient conceals the truth about how steep it is in parts. You can expect to see 12% appear on your computer at points during the climb.
There are two sides from which to approach the Col de Vars, starting either from the north in Guillestre or from the south in Les Gleizolles. The northern approach is the one featured here; the southern ascent is shorter at 14.6km but features a much sharper and steeper finish. Both have seen frequent action in the Tour de France.
The Col de Vars has been included in the Tour 35 times since 1922, when Belgian rider Philippe Thys was first over the summit on his way to a stage win. Since then, many of cycling’s greats have rolled over the pass in the lead, including Gino Bartali in 1938 and Fausto Coppi in 1951.
The Tour’s last visit was on Stage 18 in 2019, when Belgian Tim Wellens was first over, while Frenchman Julian Alaphilippe wore the yellow jersey before ultimately losing out to Ineos Grenadiers’ Egan Bernal.
It was also on this stage where German rider Nils Politt, then of Katusha, bombed down the northern side of the pass and hit a speed of 101.5kmh, registering the fastest speed ever recorded at the Tour de France.
Sounds like fun, but before you can fly down, you’ve got to climb up.
Start with a bang
Heading out of Guillestre, the start of the Col de Vars is easy to spot, partly thanks to a well-placed signpost but also because the road tilts dramatically upwards towards 9% and disappears temptingly around a corner.
The branches of trees dangle overhead, providing decent shade for the churn of the next few kilometres, which is the most difficult part of the climb at an average of 8%.
The road twists and turns upwards, offering sweeping views over Guillestre and the wider valley as a reward for the feisty starting gradient. The road you’re following is the D902 but you needn’t worry about directions as it is one long, straight slab of tarmac.
There is a cycle path much of the way, but there is also a fair amount of riding on the road and, this being on the Route des Grandes Alpes, there can be a lot of traffic rattling past. In the height of summer, it’s advisable to start the climb early in the morning to minimise time spent with petrolheads.
After reaching the hamlet of Peyre Haute, the fun really begins as the gradient hits double figures and a magnificent succession of hairpins unfurls. Cut sharply against the mountainside, meadow-green grass borders every turn, and the treeline disappears. It is here that you become more exposed to the elements and, ridden in peak sunshine, it can be a real scorcher of a climb.
As well as the heat of the sun, your legs will also feel the burn from the 12% maximum gradient, although your mind will be distracted by the wild beauty of the rocky crags and shimmering streams.
A moment’s rest can be justified by stopping to look back down the valley, where the view over the jagged peaks of the Écrins National Park is truly spectacular.
Welcome respite
Once past the halfway mark, the worst part is behind you, and this is the section where the Col de Vars serves up a treat. After passing through the commune of Saint-Marcellin, the gradient lessens considerably and the protected nature area called Le Val d’Escreins reveals itself. To the east, towering overhead, is the summit of Font Sancte, the highest peak in the area at 3,385m.
The smell of pine lingers in the air, while colourful wildflowers light up edges of the road. And it’s easy to enjoy the surroundings, because the road gently descends down past the village of Sainte-Catherine and then flattens out to offer some relief for the legs.
Soon enough the resort of Vars Les Claux rises up, a far cry from the last few tranquil kilometres. A ski town in winter, it is still bustling with people even in summer, and there are a few nods of approval as passers-by appreciate the magnitude of the effort put in to get this far.
The road gets wider and busier, and the views are momentarily lost behind a cluster of hotels and bars. This isn’t a place to stop – far greater things remain just moments up the road.
Further on you pass the Refuge Napoleon, a hotel that sits on its own overlooking a natural lake, which, even at this altitude, is apparently well stocked with trout. It’s possible to get a fishing permit from the hotel, but why would you want to stop now when there is only 3km to the top?
The road winds playfully further upwards towards the clouds, with a brief stint at 8% before dropping back down to 5% for the final kilometre. Soon the summit comes into view, marked by a cafe that is the perfect place to stop, sip a coffee in the sunshine, watch the local marmots at play and revel in the glory of the climb you’ve just done.
• This article originally appeared in issue 147 of Cyclist magazine. Click here to subscribe
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